A favorite way to enjoy clams is in a steamy bowl of chowder. There are four styles of clam chowder that are in contentious rivalry.
All clam chowder has the basics: clams, potatoes, salt pork or bacon, and onion. However, each type of chowder has different characteristics. The four chowders I will explore are New England, Manhattan, Rhode Island, and Long Island. The most significant difference between them is the broth. Some use dairy to produce a thick, creamy broth, others use a red broth made with tomatoes and spices, and there’s also a clear broth made from clam juice.
New England-style chowder is the thick, milk- or cream-based version. No vegetables besides potatoes are used. This very popular soup in the North East is often served with or thickened with oyster crackers. It is occasionally referred to as “Boston Clam Chowder” in the Midwest. Maine and Massachusetts may be the two states most associated with cream-based clam chowder.
Tomato-based Manhattan chowder has a base of tomatoes instead of cream, thus being known as “red chowder.” The broth is thinner and made with tomato puree or tomato paste. Manhattan clam chowder also has more vegetables such as carrots, celery, green peppers, onions, and potatoes. Sometimes garlic is added for a flavor boost. While the name “Manhattan” stuck, the soup has little to do with New York City’s most popular borough.
Rhode Island-style chowder uses a clear broth, as opposed to a white or red broth, and is also called “South Country Style.” It uses quahogs (pronounced co-hog), a large, hard-shell type of clam. It’s a thinner soup in which the clam broth contributes most of the flavor and the tender clam meat adds texture. It also has herbs like parsley and thyme. This variation is different from Manhattan clam chowder because it does not use tomato chunks or other vegetables. There’s also a red version of Rhode Island chowder made with tomato puree.
Long Island-style chowders have tomatoes and cream. The broth tends to be a creamy tomato blend that’s thick, like New England clam chowder. It is essentially cream of tomato soup that is packed with veggies!
Now for a few secrets for making good clam chowder. It’s key to start with fresh live clams and plenty of them. Steam them as soon as possible after buying them. The trick to ensuring that they don’t get rubbery is to steam them in the shell and pluck them from the heat the instant they open so they’re not overcooked. This method also eliminates the need for shucking and creates a delicate, briny broth that becomes the backbone of the soup. While fresh clams certainly make the best-tasting clam chowder, if they are not an option, frozen or canned clams will work.
Bacon or salt pork is typically rendered until crisp. Use the 2-3 Tablespoons fat drippings to saute the vegetables to add a rich flavor to the chowder.
Yukon Gold potatoes, which hold their shape and firmness while also releasing some starch to thicken the broth, add complexity and texture without overshadowing the clams. Leaving skins is always a good idea flavor-wise. If you dice the potatoes a while before adding them to the soup, place them in cold water to prevent browning. Then, if the recipe calls for water, drain the potatoes and use the potato water in the soup. The starch in the water will help thicken the chowder. You can also slightly thicken the chowder by crushing some of the cooked potatoes along the side of the pot.
When making milk-based chowder, don’t boil it, or it will curdle. Although a curdled chowder is safe to eat, it looks unappetizing. If it curdles, strain the chowder and pour the liquid into a blender, then blend until it is smooth.
Add fresh herbs at the end of cooking. This will preserve the flavor. Get more flavor from dried flaked herbs by crumbling them in your palm before adding them to the chowder.
Feel free to customize your chowder. Instead of bacon, try salt pork, pancetta, or even diced cubed ham. Try adding carrots, green bell peppers, or corn to add more nutrition to the dish. You can turn this into seafood chowder by adding shrimp, mussels, crab, or fish. Traditional accompaniments include oyster or chowder crackers.
So what is the real and the best of all the clam chowder types? The debate rages on about which style of clam chowder reigns supreme. No matter what kind of chowder you favor, there’s one thing all varieties have in common – clams, of course. Whether you like a thick creamy base, a bold red broth, or a clear broth of clam juice, there’s a chowder for every soup lover.
Written by Vicki Hayman, MS, University of Wyoming Extension Nutrition and Food Safety Educator