Derby weekend in Louisville is much more than horses, roses, and My Old Kentucky Home. It is a three-day festival of eating, drinking and merrymaking.
The most famous of all Derby dishes, however, is the one known as burgoo. Burgoo. Um, what? Burgoo, also known as ‘Kentucky Burgoo’ is a thick multi-meat and vegetable stew, which is a specialty of Kentucky. With as many versions of burgoo, as there are cooks who make it, you can never be too sure of what you are going to be eating since no two recipes are alike.
Burgoo is still a crowd favorite, especially during the Kentucky Derby, so much so there once was even a horse named Burgoo King, which raced and won. It has become a tradition among superstitious Kentucky race-goers to kick off each Triple Crown event with a bowl of burgoo and a glass of Kentucky bourbon.
History
The history of burgoo is ever-changing, much like the stew itself. Some believe it was brought over from England in the late 19th century, while others claim it was created by a French chef. It is likely burgoo came from ragout, a French stew made of meat, vegetables, and spices. Others think burgoo is a Kentucky spin-off of Brunswick stew.
Traditionally cooked for hours in large kettles, preparation of burgoo began as a community affair where everyone would contribute the bounty of the season and the kill of the day. The idea was to make a stew using whatever meats and vegetables were available and in good supply. That meant venison, squirrel, opossum, or game birds; essentially whatever the hunt brought back.
Creativity
Like chili and barbecue, part of what makes burgoo so fun is that its recipes are filled with regional nuances, personal touches, secrecy, and various must-haves. Recipes range in size from enough to feed a family to an entire community. Burgoo recipes all seem to have the following in common:
- At least three different meats, typically beef, chicken, lamb, and pork
- Some form of tomato product, whether chopped fresh tomatoes, tomato paste, crushed, etc.
- Beans, usually lima beans or black-eyed peas
- Corn and potatoes
Beyond that, go for it. Add a splash of bourbon, collards, cabbage, carrots, okra, onion, pepper, or a mix of herbs and spices. Some like it hot (no skimping on chile peppers in their renditions), others prefer a burgoo so thick a spoon will stand straight up in the pot, and still, others fire up their burgoos at dusk and keep them at a gentle simmer for 24 hours. A good burgoo should be thick, but still soupy. This is the reason for the long, slow cooking time. It gives the burgoo time to thicken naturally. The low-and-slow process is more important than the particular ingredients used.
Planned-Overs
As with most stews, burgoo is even better on the second day. It’s excellent as a Sunday dinner when you want lunches for the coming week. Burgoo can bring the spirit of Kentucky to a Derby TV party. Make a big pot this weekend and you won’t be sad.
Written by Vicki Hayman, MS, University of Wyoming Extension Nutrition and Food Safety Educator
Sources: